Tenganan Bali: A Glimpse into One of Bali’s Oldest Traditional Villages
Nestled in the lush hills of Karangasem Regency in the eastern part of Bali, Tenganan Pegringsingan Village, often called Tenganan Bali, is one of the island’s oldest surviving Bali Aga settlements.
The Bali Aga are the island’s original inhabitants who lived long before the Majapahit influence reached Bali from Java in the 14th century.
Unlike most parts of the island that have adapted to the demands of mass tourism, Tenganan Village has preserved its social systems, architectural style, and customary laws remarkably intact.
Visit Tenganan village feels like stepping into a living museum where ancient traditions still shape everyday life.
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Village Layout and Architecture: Reflecting the Tri Hita Karana Philosophy
Tenganan is laid out in a strict east–west orientation. The houses are aligned in neat rows, reflecting the Tri Hita Karana philosophy, harmonising human life with nature and the divine. This principle is central to Balinese Hinduism and influences everything from ritual practices to spatial planning.
Each house compound is built using red stone, river stone, and clay, with thatched roofs and wooden ceilings. Modern construction materials are prohibited to preserve the authenticity of the village’s appearance. Their rustic yet orderly design creates a harmonious visual rhythm throughout the settlement.
The Window Rule and Climate-Responsive Design
One of Tenganan’s most distinctive customs is the prohibition on opening windows. Though each house has windows, they are kept permanently shut in accordance with awig-awig (customary laws) recorded in ancient lontar manuscripts.
This rule is rooted in the Bali Aga concept of sacred spatial zones: utama (sacred), madya (intermediate), and nista (impure). Closed windows symbolically protect the sacred inner part of the house, where family shrines and sleeping areas are located, from outside influences. The front door serves as the sole source of light and air, while maintaining the sanctity of the household interior.
Though unconventional, this design suits the local climate. The thick red brick walls regulate temperature, while the thatched roofs and wooden ceilings allow subtle airflow through tiny pores. A 2021 study by Udayana University found that traditional houses in Tenganan are 2–3°C cooler on average than modern houses with open windows in the same area.
Awig-Awig: Customary Law in Bali Aga
The people of Tenganan Pegringsingan still follow the awig-awig, a set of written customary laws compiled around the 11th century and formalised in a 58-page Balinese manuscript. These laws govern all aspects of social life, from resource management to cultural practices.
One of the most notable rules requires villager to marry within the village. Those who marry outsiders lose their status as krama (village members) and must leave. This system has preserved cultural continuity and social cohesion for centuries, ensuring that ancestral knowledge and customs are passed down within the same lineage.
Such rules are strictly enforced, supported by traditional penalties like fines or temporary exclusion from community activities. Despite modern influences, compliance remains extremely high. According to a 2019 Ministry of Education and Culture report, 98% of households still fully adhere to the awig-awig.
A Pre-Majapahit Culture That Lives On
The Bali Aga culture of Tenganan predates the Majapahit era, making it a living relic of ancient Balinese civilisation. According to Indonesia’s Village Tourism Network (Jadesta), the local community has preserved rituals, architectural layouts, and social systems dating back many centuries.
This cultural endurance makes Tenganan Pegringsingan Village one of the oldest Balinese village and an essential stop for anyone seeking a meaningful cultural experience on a Bali tour.
Unique Customs of Ancient Village Tenganan
Perang Pandan: The Pandan War Ceremony
The most famous ceremonial tradition in Tenganan is the mekare-kare, widely known as the perang pandan or Pandan War. This ritual is the highlight of the annual Ngusaba Sambah festival held every June for about 30 days.
During the ceremony, men from the local community, from boys to adults, engage in friendly combat using 30-centimetre thorny pandan leaves as weapons and round rattan shields for defence. The ritual is accompanied by the distinctive sounds of traditional gamelan music.
Rather than seeking victory, participants aim to demonstrate bravery, honour their ancestors, and pay tribute to Indra, the Hindu god of war. Although the battles can cause small scratches, they are symbolic and serve to unite the younger generation through shared courage and community spirit.
Wooden Swing Tradition
Following the perang pandan, the village hosts the wooden swing ritual. Young girls from the local community wear golden ceremonial cloth and sit on a large wooden swing placed in the village courtyard, while two boys push it gently back and forth.
This ceremony represents the cyclical nature of life, sometimes rising, sometimes falling. Symbolising balance and resilience. The rhythmic movement of the swing accompanied by gamelan music creates a serene atmosphere that reflects the harmony at the heart of Tenganan’s traditions.
Gringsing Weaving: The Only Double Ikat in Indonesia
This Balinese village is internationally renowned for its gringsing (or geringsing) cloth, this village a characteristic of weaving, which is also known as Tenganan Pegringsingan Village. It is an extraordinarily rare double ikat weaving technique found only in three places in the world: Tenganan (Indonesia), Japan, and India.
The name gringsing derives from gering (illness or misfortune) and sing (no), meaning “no illness”. It is believed to have protective powers and is worn during major ceremonial events, including the wedding ceremony and ngaben (cremation ritual).
Weaving gringsing is a slow, intricate process that can take up to three years to complete. The skill is passed down from mothers to daughters, preserving this ancestral craft across generations. Visitors on a Bali tour can watch the weaving process and purchase authentic pieces as meaningful cultural souvenirs.
Story of Tenganan Village
Visitors to Tenganan Pegringsingan are greeted by tranquil surroundings, framed by traditional houses that embody the ancient Balinese architectural style. The homes are built from a mixture of red stone, river stone, and soil, with uniform layouts and thatched roofs that enhance their rustic charm.
Courtyards are decorated with local crafts such as wood carvings, bamboo weavings, and gringsing textiles. According to the Indonesia Travel website, these visual details contribute to the village’s strong aesthetic identity.
Social Cohesion and Privacy
The village layout encourages interaction while maintaining privacy. Because the houses have no open windows facing the street, daily interactions take place in the bale banjar (meeting halls) or front courtyards.
This arrangement has helped maintain close community ties and minimise conflict, even as the outside world has gradually reached Tenganan.
Balancing Traditional Balinese Life and Modernisation
Despite the strong influence of tourism on Bali, Tenganan Village has carefully controlled how modern elements are introduced. Electricity and electronic devices are now allowed, but they must not alter the structure of the houses.
Some families have fitted transparent glass panes into their permanently closed windows to allow natural light inside while respecting the traditional ban on opening windows. Such careful adaptation ensures that the village evolves without compromising its heritage.
Tenganan Ancient Village: A Living Museum in East Bali
Tenganan Pegringsingan Village stands as one of the most successful examples of cultural preservation in Indonesia. While much of Bali has transformed into bustling tourist destinations, Tenganan continues to embody the values, architecture, and rituals of the Bali Aga.
For travellers, researchers, and photographers, Tenganan Bali offers a rare and authentic cultural experience. Located in Manggis District, Karangasem Regency, it lies about 1.5 hours from Denpasar or just 10 minutes from Candidasa. The journey passes through rice fields and forested hills, offering a tranquil introduction to the spirit of East Bali.
Seeing the Village of Tenganan
Tenganan Bali is more than a tourist attraction; it is a living symbol of resilience. From the sacred gringsing textiles to the symbolic perang pandan battles honouring Indra, every aspect of this traditional village reflects the enduring identity of the Bali Aga people.
For those seeking a deeper connection to Balinese heritage, Tenganan Pegringsingan Village provides a powerful reminder that cultural continuity is possible even in the modern era. A visit here is not simply sightseeing, it is an opportunity to witness a way of life that has endured for centuries and still thrives today.
